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SOUTH SULAWESI
The province of
South Sulawesi comprises the narrow south-western peninsula of this
orchid-shaped island which is mainly mountainous.
The seafaring Bugis dominate the southern tip, whereas the northern
part of South Sulawesi is inhabited by the Torajas whose unique
culture rivals that of the Balinese. Famed for their
seafaring heritage and Pinisi schooners for centuries, the Bugis
possess to the present day one of the last sailing fleets in the
world. The Bugis vessels have sailed to as far as
the Australian coast, leaving behind drawings of their ships on
stone with words that have been integrated into the Aboriginal
language of north Australia. Situated on the crossroads of well
traveled sea-lanes, its capital and chief trading port of Ujung
Pandang, is till today the gateway to eastern Indonesia. Spanish and
Portuguese galleons, followed by British and Dutch traders sailed
these seas in search of the spice trade, escorted by their men of
war to protect them against the daring raids of the Bugis and
Makassarase who attacked the intruders. Ujung
Pandang, was formerly Makassar, well known for its Macassar oil from
which the English word "antimacassar" evolved for small covers to
protect upholstery. The fortifications which overlook the harbor
were originally built in 1545. Gowa's most famous king is considered
a national hero, named Sultan Hasanuddin, the 16th king of Gowa who
waged a long and fierce war against the colonial
forces. The Tomanurung stone with inscriptions can
still be seen in a plot neighboring the royal graves, near
Sungguminasa, formerly the seat of the kings of Gowa. The Bugis
kingdom of Bone, Wajo and Soppeng and the Makassarase kingdom of
Gowa emerged in the 13th century. Though interrelated through
marriage, Bone and Gowa have for centuries battled against each
other. The southern coast is protected by small archipelagoes and
has excellent facilities for water sports. These islands have been
developed for holiday resorts. Further north, through rugged country
is Tana Toraja, often referred to as the "Land of the Heavenly
Kings". An ethnic group who believes that their
forefathers descended from heaven onto a mountain some twenty
generations ago, the Torajas have a unique culture based on
animistic beliefs. Known for their grand burial ceremonies on cliffs
or hanging graves, they practice an ancestral cult even today where
death and afterlife ceremonies are great feasts when buffaloes are
sacrificed in the final death ceremony, after which the deceased's
remains are placed in a coffin and interred in caves hollowed out in
high cliffs. The mouth of the cave is guarded by
lifelike statues, looking out from a "balcony". As death has such an
"important meaning" when the souls are released, burials are
elaborate and follow days of feasting. Rock graves are also a form
of burial. A strict hierarchy is followed in the
villages. "Tongkonan" ( family houses) are built on
stilts with roofs on each end rising like the prows of a ship,
representing the cosmos. The mountains offer a fantastic panorama of
natural beauty, including the long drive from Ujung Pandang to Tana
Toraja. South Sulawesi is also known for its silk industry and
silver-work whereas its economy is based on agriculture. Ujung
Pandang is easily accessible by air. There are several daily flights
from Jakarta and also daily services from Bali, Surabaya and
Manado. |
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PLACES OF INTEREST |
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Ujung Pandang The provincial
capital of Ujung Pandang has in its history played an
important role as the gateway to the former kingdom of Gowa
and now to the whole province because of its natural harbor.
The center of business and administration, the city has
expanded outwards from its most important landmark, that of
Benteng Ujung Pandang which faces the sea
front. One of the eleven fortresses of the
kingdom, it was built in 1545 during the reign of Tuni
Pallanga, the 10th sultan of Gowa. When Gowa capitulated to
the colonial forces under the treaty of Bungaya in 1667, the
fort was renamed Rotterdam by Admiral Speelman who constructed
bastions and buildings of typical Dutch architecture making it
the center of the civilian government, including a church on
its premises. One of the best preserved forts of that area,
only the thick walls of earth and stones remain of the
original complex, now occupied by educational and cultural
offices of the provincial government. The two buildings house
the Ujung Pandang State Museum, exhibiting archaeological and
historical objects, manuscripts, numismatics, ceramics and
ethnic costumes and ornaments. Visiting hours
of the museum are from 8.00 a.m. until 4.00 p.m. daily except
on Mondays and public holidays. The fort itself is open daily
till 17.00 p.m. Dedicated as a center of culture, the
Conservatory of Dance and Music is located here and on the
open stage in the center of the fort, dance classes for
children can be seen in progress. Though
unmarked, but of historical interest is the dungeon where one
of Indonesia's most prominent heroes in the struggle for
freedom, Prince Diponegoro was imprisoned for 27 years. Prince
Diponegoro was buried in a family plot in the middle of the
city on a street named after him: jalan Diponegoro. The family
tree displayed on the wall indicated that none of his
descendants returned to the courts of Yogyakarta, instead,
they settled in Ujung Pandang and their custodian is a
great-grandson. Mr. Bundt, a Dutchman, has in
his private residence at No. 15 jalan Mochtar Lutfi a
collection of seashells and corals. His spacious garden is
filled with rare Indonesian orchids and hybrids. A visit is
worthwhile and several of the collections are on sale. Mr.
Bundt is registered in the Sander's List of London as an
expert in orchid cultivation. Sunsets in the
Makassar Strait can be viewed from a promenade at jalan
Penghibur or the Paotere anchorage in the north end of the
city where the Pinisi schooners are berthed.
Across the harbor is Kayangan Island which can be reached in
15 minutes by ferry. A popular recreational resort for the
people of the city, there is entertainment in the evening and
on Sundays. |
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Paotere Anchorage On the
outskirts of Ujung Pandang, Paotere is where sailing boats and
other small vessels anchor to unload their cargo. The setting
casts a glow over the sea with the silhouettes of the boats.
This scenery is most often photographed by
tourists. |
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Samalona Island Across the
harbor of Ujung Pandang is Samalona Island which has been
developed into a pleasant recreational resort. It can be
reached by boat in 45 minutes and has simple accommodation.
Recreational sports include diving, snorkeling, water skiing
and fishing. Best months to visit are from February to
October. |
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Sungguminasa Formerly the seat
of the kings of Gowa, about 11 km. from Ujung Pandang is the
old palace of wood, standing on stilts facing the town square
across the administration office. Now the Ballalompoa Museum,
weapons and costumes of royalty are on display in glass
cases. The royal regalia which includes a stone studded
gold crown weighing 1769 grams can be seen only on special
request. |
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Tomb of Sultan Hasanuddin Sultan
Hasanuddin (1629-1690) was famous for his exceptional bravery
in his struggle against colonial encroachment in South
Sulawesi. His tomb and those of other kings of Gowa are
located in a secluded cemetery not far from Sungguminasa,
about 8 km from Ujung Pandang. The huge crypts
are gray with age and just outside the walls of the cemetery,
a small fenced-off plot contains the Tomanurung stone on which
the kings of Gowa were crowned in a show of pomp and splendor.
Not far from the tombs is the oldest mosque in the area, built
in 1603. |
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Malino Formerly the holiday
resort of the kings. Malino, which is 70 km from Ujung Pandang
offers a haven from city-life. Located on the slopes of Mt.
Bawakaraeng it has a cool climate with forests of pine trees
making it picturesque. Deer hunting on horseback was a royal
sport in the days gone by. |
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Bulukumba You will find white
sandy beaches at Bira, 178 km from Ujung Pandang to the south.
Traditional ship building is also located in this area. Not
far from this area visitors can cross to the island of
Selayar. |
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Goa Mampu The largest cave in
South Sulawesi, the legendary cave of Mampu is about 140 km
from the capital. Besides stalagmites and stalactites, rock
formations resemble human figures and animals to which legends
are attached. The cave is inhabited by bats who shriek and
flutter around when bright lights pierce the
darkness |
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Bantimurung To the north of
Ujung Pandang and driving east along the mountain range, is
the Bantimurung waterfalls, about 41 km from the capital. A
cascade of sparkling water gushes out between rocky cliffs
into a stream shaded by tall trees. Here the air is filled
with butterflies which fly from shrub to shrub over the
water. These rare brightly colored ornithoid butterflies
are considered the most beautiful in the
world. |
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Leang-Leang Now declared an
archaeological site, these prehistoric caves have strange rock
carvings of hands and a wild pigs, believed to be 5,000 years
old. The road leads from Maros through the cave-riddled
limestone hills to the site about half an hour's drive from
the airport. |
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Pare-pare Pare-pare is a lunch
stop along the road from Ujung Pandang to Toraja, through
paddy-fields and typical Bugis houses made of wood and bamboo,
built on stilts. Here we can find the museum Labangenge,
located at jalan Bau Massepe No. 82,
Pare-pare. |
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Sengkang The capital town of
Wajo Regency is well-known for its silk weaving and therefore
is the center of Buginese silk. This area is populated by the
Buginese ethnic group, known for their crossing to other
islands as traders of silk, sarongs and other material. Here
we can find lake Tempe, one of the tourist resorts. Sailing
and boating can be enjoyed on this lake. |
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Soppeng Another center of the
silk industry, this spinning mill produces thread from silk
worms. Weaving can be seen in many private homes along this
route which is 240 km to the northeast of Ujung Pandang. The
finest silk is hand-loomed by village women who individually
need a whole month to produce two meters of silk. Visitors are
welcome to stop and watch, or make a purchase if there is any
readily available. |
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Tana Toraja Tana Toraja, (Toraja
Land) which lies in the north of the province is known for its
unique culture and ancient traditions. The center of tourism
is Rantepao, 328 km from Ujung Pandang by road. There are
several small bungalow hotels at Rantepao, and Makale, the
district capital. The entry to Tana Toraja is marked by a gate
built in traditional boat-shaped architecture. The road passes
through the mountains of Kandora and Gandang on which,
according to Toraja mythology, the first ancestors of
celestial beings descended from heaven. The
majority of the people still follows an ancestral cult called
"Aluk Todolo" which governs all traditional ceremonies. From
Rantepao, side trips can be made to Kete, a traditional
village where there are handicraft and unique shops. Behind
the village there is a grave site on a hillside. Life-size
statues guard over old coffins. As roads are not always paved,
it is necessary to use a jeep or walk if the weather is good
(between May and October). Two cliff graves easy to reach are
Lemo and Londa. Londa is one of the oldest hanging graves
belonging to the nobility. A large balcony is filled with
effigies of the dead. Kerosene lamps with young village
guides, can be hired to enter the caves to see skeletons and
old coffins. At Lemo, burial chambers are cut out of the rock
and several balconies filled with effigies look out while new
caves are being dug to serve as family graves.
There are several grave sites and traditional villages of
which Palawa is a classic example of a village on a small hill
with "Tongkonan" or a burial place with celebrations and
festivals. Visitors are welcome but they are expected to
adhere to local customs of dress, seating and bringing a token
present. |
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Enrekang 236 km to the north of
Ujung Pandang, you can see beautiful landscapes at Bambapuang,
located 20 km from Enrekang to the north on the way to Tana
Toraja. Here can be seen an erotic mountain called Batu
Kabobong, by its shape formed by the valley and slopes. A rest
house is built on an elevation, giving a clear view of the
countryside. |
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Verdana, Helvetica, Sans-Serif
Polewali is the capital town of Polmas Regency located 246 km
north of Ujung Pandang. It is inhabited by Mandarnese,
Buginese, Torajans and Javanese ethnic groups. This town is
well-known for its silk sarongs which is called "Sarung
Mandar" and rattan furniture and crafts. There are several
small islands to be reached by fishing boats in 10- 16
minutes. All these islands, have white sandy
beaches. |
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Shopping Hints Filigree
silverware and ornaments, hand-woven silks and cottons,
hand-carved wooden panels and pictures, bamboo household
ornaments and brass-ware are all available. |
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Links
http://songlinecruises.com/desc6.html
- Diving in
Sulawesi. | | |
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